Thursday 28 May 2009

"One of those days in England......"

…....with the country goin' broke......."
A day out in Corfu Town
On Saturday we had a rare ‘gig free’ day off, so we decided to have a day out and explore Corfu Town, not the tourist spots but the bits that we have glimpsed on route to and from the airport run.
As usual we didn’t get an early start and once we’d stopped for pastries at the excellent bakery on the main road just on the outskirts of Corfu town, (2 spinach pies later) it was midday; Oops! We parked at the old harbour and took the short cut through the town and across the “Liston”

This is a beautiful tree lined square with a large grassy area, which in the height of summer is packed with cars, motorbikes, horse drawn carriages and tourists. It was so quiet and deserted! We carried on past the fort and onto the road that runs alongside the sea front.

We have often driven past this area and it always looks interesting. So we set off walking and discovered streets with beautiful roof top gardens and tavernas that seemed to cater for the locals rather than the tourist trade. The whole area was quite run down with many derelict buildings
and overgrown boulevards
but it was really charming too and retained a character that has been lost in some other parts of the town. There were signs for European funding projects taking place to revitalise the area and there was evidence of these old buildings being restored and brought back to life.
We walked to an area known as Mon Repos. (named after a 2 Ronnie’s sketch?).

“The tumbledown structure of the basilica, built by bishop Iovian in the V century, is located across the road of the entrance into the park. The park is filled with various vegetation and refreshing coolness, especially urgent during hot day. The monastery of Saint Euphemia hid behind the hedge. A little further, along the path there is the small palace Mon Repos. Formerly it was a summer residence of Greek kings, now here is the museum, where the archaeological finds, assembled from the adjacent places are collected. Further the path leads to the heap of the stone blocks, partly stowed, partly scattered. This is the temple of Hera (Heraeum) of VII - IV century B.C. Still further there are the ruins of the Doric temple of Artemis.”

This quote above is from a great blog by a Russian tourist, see link below
http://www.eikones.zoxt.net/en/ker3.html

They were charging 2 euros to enter the gardens and jump off the pier into the sea so we decided to give it a miss! The cafĂ©’s here were characterless, purely tourist rip off places and they even have a little motorised “train” to carry people to this part of town from the Liston and conveniently bypass the run down areas we had just walked through.
It was boiling hot and although we had brought bottles of water with us we were both feeling the effects of the midday sun, so on our way back to the car we detoured down tree lined avenues which led to the main square in the town past some incredibly beautiful villas and apartments.
It was just after 2pm when we walked through the town and through the marbled streets back to the Liston. It was so quiet in town, people had probably gone for their siestas, and it was great to see the streets so empty.

We decided to have a drink and a ‘meze’ in one of our favourite bars on the Liston; (basically you can have a glass of wine for 2.5 euros or wine with a meze for 3 euros, which is a small plate of local meats, cheeses, olives, chips and bread! Bargain!)
As we were being served, we noticed several men wearing cricket whites. Our waiter explained, that every year, on this UK Bank holiday weekend, a cricket team from England is invited to take on a Greek side as part of a traditional 3-day annual event! We watched them warm up and then commence play as if it was a Sunday afternoon on a village green somewhere in the English countryside. The only difference being, it was 30 degrees in the shade and not raining! The Liston is probably half the size of a cricket pitch and they were using proper cork balls!!!! Cars were still parked nearby and any boundaries scored went under, over or into the cars or 30 feet in the other direction, so the ball could land amongst all the high-class bars and tavernas, which surrounded the area! It was a bit biazzar to say the least. But stuff that legends are made of. We have often heard of this cricket match-taking place but could never have imagined how they played on such a small pitch or that we would ever see it happen! They even had their Cricketers WAGS quaffing champers and eating clubs sandwiches. Shouting “jolly good show what”!!!!!
We had a fascinating few hours watching this spectacle (and 3 wine mezes) before returning through the deserted streets to our car and back home.
"One of those days in England..... chompin' baked beans in my coat
Tell me when it matters, love, I might just wanna get out of bed to see"
(by Roy Harper.......for those of you who care!)

Wednesday 20 May 2009

"We are the Village Green Preservation Society"...

The view from Afianos village overlooking Arillas & the San Stefanos headland where we live

This year we have decided to have some days out walking instead of just exploring out and about in the car. Also May is cooler so it’s a good opportunity to don our groovy walking sandals and climb some hills.

Lemon Trees & Olive Groves
We had already done the cliff top walk from our house in San Stefanos (NW) across to Arillas village, so today we decided to venture further and walk over to the lovely old village of Afianos; which is perched high on the headland looking down on Agios Georgios Bay to the south and the open Ionian Sea to the north. A view from a cliff top Taverna

Afianos is where Paul and Milena have booked to stay in August, and where we briefly visited them when they stayed there for our wedding holiday. More panoramic views of the Arillas bay
From Arillas we walked up the very hilly and winding road and through the olive groves to Afianos. As soon as we got to the edge of the village we saw an old Greek woman shearing her sheep! V exciting, Liz has become obsessed with spotting little old greek ladies over the last 3 years?? "God save mrs. mopp and good old mother riley..."

Anyway, we asked her in our best Greek if it was ok to take a photo. She was very sweet and obligingly posed with her sheep. Then she proudly asked us to feel the sheepskin that was on the ground in front of her; which we did and it was grim, it was oily and very smelly; but we told her it was very beautiful.
One sheared sheep minus its coat which is on the floor in front of sheep n owner

Not much further up the road we saw another Greek woman, this time in traditional dress, she had dragged a hosepipe across the road from her house to water her veg patch, whilst her frail looking husband sat in the garden shouting instructions to her and she was muttering away back to him. Little ol' lady carrying the regulation blue plastic bag; ...over the years, everywhere we go in Corfu we have constantly seen ‘little old Greek ladies’ walking up hills with their blue carrier bag. We have a theory that they are on their way back from the local ‘dealers’ house and the bags are full of ‘grass’ & “E’s” for the “liddle ol’ lady” raves they have once the tourist bus has past. lol. As we got further into the village we kept seeing donkeys tied up in every field, old & very smelly! Then right on cue a woman came walking down the road leading her heavily ladened donkey, for another touristy photo op. carry that load!
This started to feel like we were on the set of a Film featuring ‘traditional life in a Greek village’; or something the local tourist board had arranged for the tourist season. A sort of “Beamish-os” or Jorvik-eos does my ass look big etc........
All the gardens had chickens in, vegetables growing and the most fantastic flowers, it just got more beautiful the further into the village we walked.
You have to walk through very pretty narrow winding streets where no cars or bikes can go; to get to the top of the village, which takes you out onto a hill overlooking both the Agios George Bay and the Arillas Bay.
The intrepid Liz power walking through the village

a view through a garden gate

Millstones various sizes!!!!

And here we saw a Greek woman bringing her goats in for milking and another old lady was hammering wooden stakes into the ground for her vegetables.

Panoramic view of Agios Georgios

One of our favourite days out so far.....

"Preserving the old ways from being abused;
Protecting the new ways for me and for you
What more can we do......"
More soon.......L&K

Tuesday 12 May 2009

Why does it always rain on me..........?

Leaving Hull on Sunday......
at sunset.....
........... at quarter past G&T.........!

We have been here in Corfu for just over a week now. We took our time driving down to Venice, stopping over with family as usual on the way. We had 3 days on the road, and it rained & rained & rained & snowed!!!!
Drove past 100's of castles down the Rhine valley........
..... and through clouds and more clouds

The evening we spent with Paul & Milena in Heidelberg was very musical, with Paul & Keith playing guitar ............and Antonia playing beautifully on her flute
Fed and watered....we left Paul’s house on Tuesday morning in light rain and within 10 miles it was heavy rain for virtually the rest of the journey.
Switzerland...rain...snow...and cherry blossom....

Then going through the Alps, just as we were about to enter the St Gottard tunnel, a snow storm blew in; it was an amazing experience, we had considered driving over the pass rather than using the tunnel but the pass was closed due to bad weather so we didn’t have to make that choice.
Italian lakes in all their glory.....

The bad weather continued through Italy,
and when we got to Deborah’s in Milan there was a thunderstorm late in the evening. After a very pleasant evening with the Sannelli family in Milan we set off to Shelia’s and experienced the rush hour traffic around Milan.

Italian drivers have a unique way of driving, they drive at high speed right up to the bumper of the car in front almost pushing them out of the way, then lots of sudden braking and swerving from lane to lane, usually at the last minute before they turn off for their junction, it’s like the “wacky races” and how there are not more serious accidents I do not know.

We arrived at Sheila’s in the Italian Lakes on Wednesday and had a particularly ‘wet’ night!! This time due to lots of wine and an intense wine fuelled debate where we put the world to rights, after which we decided the following day to do some sight seeing and go to Verona for the afternoon.

What an amazing old city with fantastic old buildings and all the stuff you’d expect from a tourist hot spot including a Mc d’s with a “tastefully” different coloured M to be “subtle” in amongst the ancient Roman and Venetian architecture……nice!

There were lots of street artists and things going on for the tourists.

Whilst we where there the heavens opened once again for another downpour and the marble tiled streets became skating rinks and Liz in her flip flops had to cling on to me for dear life at the risk of falling over!

Romeo...Romeo...where for art thou??
........In Macdonalds of course....!!

We escaped the downpour by stitting and eating in a pizza place in the main square and people watched for an hour.

On Friday morning we finally woke up to decent weather as we set off to do the short trip to Venice.
Snow on the Italian Alps on the way to Venice....
What has surprised us so far is the price of fuel! It is more expensive than in the UK; in Holland the average price was 1.34 euros, Germany was about 1.20 euros, and when we drove through the alps the 1st services we stopped at wanted a staggering 1.68 euros per litre, luckily the average price on Corfu this year is just under the euro at .97 cents.

Anyway with a slight detour on route to Venice due to a new stretch of motorway not recognised by the SatNav, we arrived with time to spare for the 24hour ferry crossing to Corfu, unlike some people, who arrived with minutes to spare, the ferry was just about all loaded up and over a 20 minute period just before the doors closed, what seemed like an endless stream of last minute passengers in their cars and trucks had to be fitted on to the ferry;
..with the usual Greek/Italian mayhem and chaos, a British car that arrived at the last minute got loaded on and off 3 times before the job was done.

The trip from Venice to Corfu was largely uneventful,
We had a great cabin this year...

the ferry was fairly quiet, and we felt like real youngsters compared with the average age of the other passengers.

The only drama was that this year with all the smoking ban in Italy and the forthcoming ban in Greece (yep they are gonna try to do it here…This July!!) Liz couldn’t buy any cigs on the boat!!!! Not that she’d planned to stock up with thousands as in previous years, but not a one anywhere on board. This must have caught many people by surprise ‘cos 1st stop on mainland Greece and several people got off whilst the boarding and unloading took place and they ran to the shop at the ferry port and bought some for the remainder of the journey, even some of the crew wizzed over to the shop to buy some!

So we arrived here last Saturday, happy to find our home just as we had left it. We have spent a majority of our first week networking and finding work and catching up with friends. And Keith has managed to do 3 gigs in the first week.
So all is well. Will blog again soon.